Roti King
If you find yourself hungry and pulling into Euston, Kings Cross, or St Pancras one evening. Boy, do I have a little treat for you. Roti King, tucked away below ground on 40 Doric Way, serves authentic and reasonably priced Malaysian food that will leave you with a new favourite food spot in London.
Chef and founder Sugen Gopal moved to the UK after some success running his family’s restaurant in Ipoh. Instead of staying put, he saw an opportunity abroad, hoping to bring Malaysian cuisine to the international stage. In 2003, he started his first solo venture with Oriental City in Colindale. This is where he earned his name, the “Roti King”. After closing in 2008, Sugen found a vacant spot in Euston and opened Roti King. Since it has become a favourite in London for lovers of Malaysian and Singaporean street food.
First things first, there is always a queue. A long one. You’ll be waiting in line for at least 40 minutes. Roti King’s exterior begs the question of why. But stick with it, trust me. And if you’re bored, ask someone to hold your place in the queue, pop to the shop round the corner on your right, and grab a tinny for the wait. Once eventually given a table, you’ll walk down the stairs and into a crowded, hot, white-lit basement. When sat, take in the atmosphere and expect to rub shoulders with your neighbours. Watch in awe of the chefs within eyeshot effortlessly spinning and shaping their infamous roti canai.
I’d say the best spots always have the most simple menus. Roti King doesn’t complicate things. It has a small selection of plates from 6 sections, including dessert. There are options between dhal, chicken, fish, or mutton alongside your roti. As well as more vegetarian ‘Murtabak’ and rice dishes. For those with a sweet tooth, I like the sweet roti with banana, but if you’re not a fan of the yellow fruit, there are variations of sweet roti alongside coconut jam or condensed milk. Either way, I’d recommend going with a friend or two and trying everything. It might spare you the pain of food envy.
The food celebrates colour, texture and spice in the entirety of its spectrum. The Kari Laksa’s vibrant orange broth is so beautiful to look at, and even better to taste. It’s comforting. It tastes new and familiar simultaneously. Warming and reminding you of the different cultural influences that make up Malaysian cuisine. The green morning glory sprinkled with red hot chili sends you into a hot flush. But one that feels good, makes you feel alive, and can be easily cooled down by a sip of overly sweet milk tea. The roti canai is how you’d want it. Delicate, buttery and perfect for dipping into hot, fragrant dhal. These flatbreads are genius. And their makers are even more so.
It’s hard to find good Malaysian food in London. But Roti King has certainly helped fill that gap. The food is true to the region, tastes great, and shows off roti-making at its highest level. It’s a true craft. There are plenty of restaurants across London to choose from, but if you want a reliably authentic South East Asian food experience, pass by the shabby streets of Euston in hope of a quiet queue.
Euston, 40 Doric Way, London NW1 1LH