Oyster Tartare
On The Lake
If you can’t drive, it’s a fucker to get to. But Atelier & Co is worth the effort. Located on the edge of Étang de Thau, a saltwater lagoon in the South of France, it exclusively serves a variety of mussel and oyster dishes.
The lake plays an important role in the region. It supplies salt, mussels, and oysters across France's southern coast. Lakeside towns and villages, such as Marseillan and Sete possess rich histories of fishing identity. Here, shellfish are treated with pride.
On first appearance, Atelier & Co looks like the front of an abandoned factory. Somewhere you might curiously stumble across on a bike ride. But if you push through its rusted door, you enter a shellfish workshop, where it’s anything but abandoned. Oyster farmers shift heavy machinery whilst industrial sounds echo around the room. Making sure not to touch anything, you come to a beautiful terrace, leaving a world of stainless steel behind in favour of one of serenity.
Oyster farmer and founder Laurent Arcella names it his “tasting terrace”. He’s quite right. The word restaurant doesn’t quite fit Atelier & Co. It’s simply a place to eat. Oyster lovers come to indulge and forget about their troubles.
It’s a charming setting which Laurent claims attempts to bring the oyster lover closer to the oyster farmer. You’re surrounded by the daily movements and sounds of the local oyster trade. Chains scrape across the gravel, boats move overhead whilst you tease the idea of dangling your feet in the water.
Knowing exactly where your food is coming from makes the oysters and mussels taste that bit more personal. Oyster tartare, which I can safely say is the best shellfish dish I’ve ever eaten, was followed by 12 oysters and Mussels au gratin. My favourite sort of treat.
It’s difficult for me to feel full when eating shellfish. I ordered a coconut ice lolly. Bad idea. Atelier & Co has its specialities. Stick to them.
Laurent has created something truly wonderful. In a time where food lovers are starting to become more concerned with where their food comes from. Here is a place which bridges that gap in the most authentic and delicious way. If you’re passing through the South of France, be sure to check it out.
